Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Shower Door Hardware - A Checklist

Shower Door Hardware - A Checklist

Shower door hardware greatly influences the look as well as the execution of your shower door. Some of the basic hardware are sweeps, drip rails, hinges, pulls, handles, knobs, caddies and bumpers.

Many shower doors come in kits complete with approved hardware. But if you want to explore more options, you can go online (glassdistributorsinc.com, organizeit.com, etc) for a wide array of hardware choices. Take a look at some of them.

Shower Caddy

Brass Clips:

American Shower Door offers these brass clips with flat or beveled edges. You can opt to have these clips customized for your favorite angles, designs and shapes. They are ready as 2 inches by 2 inches and full 3 inches by 4 inches hinge profiles.

Vienna Series Frameless Shower Door Handles and Hinges:

This shower kits consist pull handle with 6-inch hole spacing and two lowest or top mount hinges. The Tubular Back-to-Back economy Pull handle features 1.5mm thick brass tubing, 1 and ¼-inch diameter metal washers and nylon spacer washers for glass contact protection. The hinges are designed for 3/8 inch to ½ inch glass and ready in whether glass-to-glass or wall mounting. The solid brass hinges have stainless steel animated parts. Desist options are chrome, brass and brushed nickel.

Stainless Tension Pole Shower Caddy:

This space-saving corner caddy is a perfect transfer designed to fit best in vertical spaces with height of five to nine feet. It is constructed of stainless steel in elegant polished finish. The complete set comes with four baskets where you can store your toiletries, towel bars and hooks. The ready sizes are 8 and ½ inches wide by 5 feet to 9 feet high by 8 and ½ inches deep.

modern Style Back-to-Back Shower Door Knob:

These solid brass knobs from Glass Distributors Inc. Come in almost 17 animated finishes. Prices vary according to the Desist option--.30 for chrome, brass, brushed nickel, polished nickel, .40 for white and .50 for oil rubbed bronze and old brass. Knob measurements are 1 and 3/16 inches in diameter and 1 and 3/16 inches in height.

7/8" Clear Shower Door Bumper - Package:

These clear bumpers are best for sliding doors. They have adhesive backing, medium hardness and a center screw home. They come in diameter of 7/8 inch.

U-Channels and Thresholds:

This header kit provides added preserve and safety for your door. It secures the glass panels that have not reached the ceiling. The items are sold in 66 inches, 98 inches and 144 inches lengths, 1 and ¼ inches duplicate profile extrusion and choices of facing edges. Part numbers and their finishes are Sdh660Ba in animated anodized, Sdh660Ga in animated gold, Sdh660Bl in black, Sdh660Gm in gun metal and Sdh660W in white.

When buying shower door hardware, take time to explore the myriad of choices ready on the store and choose the items that will work best in your shower room.

Shower Door Hardware - A Checklist

Sunday, April 29, 2012

How To choose The Best Tiles For Your Bathroom

How To choose The Best Tiles For Your Bathroom

If you're considering remodelling your bathroom or just trying to give it a new lease of life then you should look at using tiles as part of your plan. These tiles work well on the floor, walls and even in the shower. What's more they come in a dizzying variety of styles and designs so you'll have plentifulness to select from and will undoubtedly find something to match your bathroom decor plans. Ceramic tiles have been used in homes all over the world for centuries and offer an perfect way to add some texture and pattern to your bathroom.

Now we can have a look at the distinct types of ceramic tiles available on the store today. First off we have glazed ceramic tile which is good considerable to bathroom walls and work surfaces or countertops. Why? Because this type of tile is very slippery when wet and is pretty much your last option for a bathroom floor. The tile itself is made from clay and water and is then "fired" or baked to dehydrate it. Once terminated it's given a colored glaze which gives it a slippery end - which is why it's so slippery when it gets wet.

Shower Wall

The next type of tile is earthenware and this is made from a blend of fine-grain clays and other minerals creating a very moisture and stain-resistant product. Because of this earthenware tiles can take years of hardship whilst retention their color and inherent beauty.

One of the admittedly neat things about tiling your bathroom is that you get to experiment with vivid colors and unusual designs. You can toy with wall patterns and shapes to make your bathroom admittedly striking. Reconsider using a solid background of tiles combined with brighter accent tiles. Or how about adding a few attractive tiles on a solid tile background such as in a excellent floral or seascape or funky art mosaic to for a truly distinctive look on your bathroom walls?

Tiling the floor of your bathroom is regularly the most time fascinating part. This regularly takes 2 - 3 days to complete from start to finish. A good tip when considering types of tiles for a bathroom floor is that tiles are evaluated for wear resistance on a scale from 1 (lowest) to 5 (highest). A Pei-1 or Light Traffic rating is recommended for areas such as bathrooms where shoes are not consistently worn. This is just a guideline that you can work from.

The best choices for your bathroom floor are granite, slate or sandstone in terms of end and safety. They have a high slip tolerance so when they're wet they're far safer to walk on then say ceramic tiles. They also add a degree of "earthiness" to the room and make it feel that bit more "homely".

Some people worry that having tiles in the bathroom makes the room a little bit more cold - both admittedly and metaphorically. If this is a real concern for you then plainly fit a tile warming principles to keep the floor warm during those cold spells during the year. With no high-priced ductwork or plumbing requirements, this system's factory is regularly quite straighforward.

How To choose The Best Tiles For Your Bathroom

Friday, April 27, 2012

Your Bathroom Needs Glass Tile

Your Bathroom Needs Glass Tile

Most population want to use mosaic tile somewhere in their home. The bathroom is the ideal place to get creative and setup glass tile. There are many inherent locations for your glass including the shower, sink backsplash, floor, and whole walls.

The shower is probably the most common setup location for glass mosaic tile in the bathroom. Whether you pick to use just one solid color throughout or generate a blend of colors that you want instead, you can cover the whole area for a uncostly price if you shop around. Someone else popular use in the shower is to use large 12" tiles on the wall and run a border of colorful glass tiles at the waistline. You can go one step added and tile that shower seat or shower inset with the same shiny glass tiles.

Bathroom Shower

The sink backsplash is a great way to add a minuscule bit of color to a somewhat boring room. pick a tile blend that compliments the countertops. You can setup this tile between the mirror and the countertop at a very low cost. If you want to add more zing to your room then tile all the way to the ceiling wrapping around your mirror.

The small mosaic tiles will make your room appear larger. If your bathroom is very small then you might reconsider installing glass tile on one whole wall. This will enlarge your space and add splendid color and texture. If you tile the wall across from your mirror then the reflection will enlarge the area even more.

Most glass tiles will work exquisite on a floor. Check with your supplier to verify that the tile you like is floor friendly first. The best thing about using this tile on your bathroom floor is that it is easier to setup than large ceramic tiles. These are so small that you naturally cut the sheets to work around the toilet, sink, and shower areas. No need for a wet saw. Some might ask if it is of course safe to put glass tile on the floor. If using mosaic tile that is 1" or smaller then you will a lot of grout joints. This in itself will give you plenty of texture and makes them slip resistant. Vitreous glass tile is somewhat textured on the outside and will add even more grip for your floor.

Once you conclude what tiles you want to use and where you want to use them, you will need to setup these. Whether you setup them yourself or use a professional, make sure to use the appropriate adhesive and grout. The best grout to use in a bathroom is an epoxy grout. It is more difficult to work with but it will not stain or mildew. In a bathroom, this is a great perk.
Choose to keep it neutral or go wild with vivid colors but absolutely express yourself in the bathroom. It is the one place that you can step out of your comfort zone and generate an splendid look.

Your Bathroom Needs Glass Tile

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Bathroom renovation - A Step by Step Guide

Bathroom renovation - A Step by Step Guide

Bathrooms are one of the smallest rooms in the house and they are also one the most costly to renovate. Bathroom reparation is a job that, if done well, can add value to a home and a great space full of construct and light.

Bathroom design

Bathroom Shower

Bathroom construct is the first area of your bathroom reparation you need to get right. Just replacing the existing bathroom with the same construct may not be enough. The key to great bathroom construct is to construct it with the population that are going to use it in mind. Any way be sure that your bathroom construct also has a normal use factor as well. For example: If you were designing a bathroom for families you could still construct the bathroom with easy access to the shower and bath. This would ensure that the construct would also work for population with wee mobility. This means if you determine to sell your home or if you are renovating for profit your construct has a wider store appeal. Great bathroom construct also uses the space well, taking into account the light or window space, size of fittings, and drainage options. Draw out a plan to scale and right down the sizes of your room. Mark the existing drainage points and then and water inlet points. Write down a wish list of the bathroom fittings to need and want with their sizes. Now marry the two together and see what fits. Note: Most bathroom drainage and water inlet points can be moved but this does come at extra cost.

Bathroom remodel

If you have decided to do the work yourself or part of the work it is time to hire a skip bin and pull out the old bathroom. If your home was made pre 1980 you may have fibro bathroom wall linings with asbestos in it and great care will need to be taken. You will need some full body disposable overalls, eye protection, and capability dust mask. Check with your local building authority or council with regard to the regulation on bathroom asbestos wall lining removal.

Remove all things except the plumbing. If you keep the bathroom plumbing in place you will not have to turn the water off for the whole house. Also you will need to jack hammer the floor tiles up and the sand and cement bed that they are laid on.

Bathroom reparation and construction

Bathrooms must be building properly from the ground up to ensure that the terminated job is precise and true. This also ensures the construct and look of the bathroom will have a great finish

The Bathroom reparation Process

Install water and drainage pipe and electrical wires. Install wall lining and ceiling and then setup the bath hob and bath. Waterproof the floor and shower and bath recess. Correct the fall of the floor with sand and cement ready for tiling. Lay floor and wall tiles and then grout. Install new bathroom vanity, fittings, and taps - setup new electrical. Paint ceiling and final clean.Step one - Plumbing and electrical

At this point all new plumbing is installed for clean hot and cold water and drainage. Faithful concentration needs to be taken when positioning the new plumbing so that the plumbing fittings are precise when the tiling is finished. For example: To centre a fitting in a shower recess you must take into consideration the thickness of the wall board, tile glue and tile so the fitting will be centred after the tiles are in place. The same applies to installing drainage pipes for a toilet; the wall lining and tile thickness must be taken into account so the pipe is in the precise position when the toilet is installed after tiling. Also rough in the any new electrical wires without connecting them to the mains power.

Step two - setup wall and ceiling linings

Install your 6mm wall lining being Faithful to nail the fibro board every 150mm without nailing into the new pipes and electrical wires. The best way is to quantum and mark the pipe and wire layout onto your new wall board with a pencil as you go. Screw up (or nail) the ceiling lining, plasterboard is the most common. Any way if you are laying your tiles from floor to ceiling do not setup the cornice as this is best done after tiling. If you are not tiling to the ceiling go ahead and setup the cornice after the wallboard and ceiling lining have been installed. Also if your bath is not freestanding you can now make up the frame and setup the bath. Ensure the bath is installed correctly allowing for the thickness of the tiles and glue.Be sure to check all linings and pipes before you continue with your bathroom renovation.

Step three - Waterproof your bathroom

Waterproof your bathroom floor, shower recess, and nearby the bath. When waterproofing the floor ensure that the waterproofing comes 100mm up the walls. The shower recess will need to be waterproofed 100mm above the shower rose outlet. Also the bath should be waterproofed 100mm above the lip of the bath right nearby and to the floor. At the doorway setup a 25 x 25mm aluminum angle glued into place with capability silicone and waterproof into the lip. Your whole bathroom should now the tanked, so the all water will only go down a drain. Bathroom waterproofing tip: waterproofing is an easy job but capability and accuracy is most important.

Step four - Lay in the cement screed for the floor.

Before the floor tiles can laid the floor must be plane and fairly flat with a wee fall to the drainage outlet. To do this you must use sand and cement mix and it is best to add a waterproofing agent into this as well. With a level, set the floor level at the doorway. Use the top aluminum angle as the terminated floor level and quantum down the thickness of the tile plus 10mm for the glue. Mark right nearby the bathroom with a level and then screed in your sand and cement mix with a 1 to 3 degree fall to the top of the drain outlet. Take your time and get it right with the terminated level as plane as possible. When the sand cement mix has set but is not dry (you can walk on it but you it is still a bit soft) rub it over with a house brick. This will remove all the small highs and lows and check with a level as you go. Let the bathroom floor fully dry and then you should have a great outside to tile onto. Tip: the more work you put into the floor screed the easier your tiling will be.

Step five: Tile floor and walls

Lay your tiles on the floor first and then grout. Then lay your wall tiles development sure that they are level as you lay. Once the bathroom tiles have been cut and laid, grout all your tiles and then buff the tiles clean.

Step six: setup plumbing fitting and fixtures

Install all your plumbing fittings and taps. Also fit all your towel rails and soap holders. Fit your new bathroom vanity development sure it is level and sealed nearby the top with silicone and also seal nearby the bath. Tip: make sure they are in the right place before you drill into your tiles.

Step seven: painting, and cleaning - enjoy

Paint your ceiling and do a final clean development sure all things is fitted correctly and that there are no leaks in your plumbing. - Enjoy your new bathroom.

Bathroom renovation - A Step by Step Guide

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

take off Black Mold From Your Bathroom Walls

take off Black Mold From Your Bathroom Walls

In order to remove bathroom mold, you will need a solution that can remove the source of the black mold. When cleaning mold and mildew, you have to search for the perimeter wall and also look for any sources of moisture. If you have black mold and mildew in your bathroom, it is most likely causing a qoute with you and your family. By having these toxins which the spores produce, it will cause serious mold condition effects. When removing mold, you will have to be sure to remove the source of the problem. Since mold and mildew are attracted to moisture and also need something to eat, you will have to find these sources. In more times than most, black mold and mildew grows on the wall because the wall is a building material which is a food source. When you have a high humidity value inside the areas of the bathroom, you will see dark spots of the black mold growing.

If you were to live with black mold in your house, you would feel some signs and symptoms of the toxins which the black mold delivers. These symptoms are caused from the excrement of the mold and mildew. Excrement is of course the digestion of the mold and mildew. After eating off the walls of the home, the black mold delivered excrement which is toxic. Thus, while you and your family have mold issues.

Shower Wall

In order to effectively remove the spores of the mold, you will need to find the source of the problem. If you have a water leak or some type of moisture intrusion, then you will need to find the source of this problem. By just removing the mold on the walls, and ignoring the source of the problem, you will still have a mold qoute guaranteed. What mold inspections are about is seeing the source of the problem. If you are clever sufficient to know there is a moisture qoute you can then go ahead and charge the area using a natural cleaning product. Be sure when using natural cleaning products that they are strong sufficient to remove black mold effectively. Natural cleaning products are all about using regular household ingredients, but will effectively remove and prevent mold and mildew. The challenge with most green cleaning products is that they are not tough sufficient to destroy mold and mildew. Let me give you an example, most people will use bleach to remove the spores of the mold and mildew. But what happens here, is the mold is only removed temporarily. By using bleach you are only removing the topical surface of the problem. It is not attacking the source or changing the Dna make up of the mold and mildew. There is a natural ingredient out there which cleans mold and mildew and also creates a fence to prevent mold growth.

By removing mold spores effectively, you will need to make sure the source is controlled. In order to control the source of the qoute with mold. You will need a solution that creates a clear fence or shield from you and the mold. This process is called an encapsulate. The encapsulate is a way which mold and mildew will suffocate because there is no source of food allowed. By protecting the walls of your bathroom, walls of your house, and other building materials, you have an capability to prevent the growth of mold and mildew. The challenge with black mold and mildew is taking away the source of the problem. Using bleach will only remove mold temporarily. If you are serious and have bathroom mold on your walls and in your house, then you need a strong natural cleaning product to kill mold. The natural cleaning product should be organic due to the harsh chemicals in other cleaning products. Have a look at Safe Shield to use as an productive natural cleaning product against mold and mildew. Safe Shield is also an organic solution and combined with Molderizer, it is a strong mixture to effectively remove black mold and also prevent it from advent back. To growth the indoor air capability of your home, try an organic cleaning solution that will remove and prevent mold from ever advent back.

take off Black Mold From Your Bathroom Walls